The Lighterman – review
By Sophie Parkinson & Hannah Phillips
Having completely shed the red-light-district vibe and fast establishing itself as London’s go-to foodie haven, Granary Square welcomed another new resident in the form of ‘pub, dining room and bar’, The Lighterman.
(nb – for those who are unfamiliar, the King’s Cross restaurant hub is just a short walk north of the station. You’ll know you’re nearby when the tourists start to be replaced by art students.)
So just another in-trend, all-day dining and drinking joint, then?
Well, yes. But there’s more.
A luxe-Scandi atmosphere rivaling that of Sticks’n’Sushi, and spanning three floors overlooking the Square and Regent’s Canal, The Lighterman is set within a contemporary, industrial-style building with floor-to-ceiling windows and an alfresco terrace. So the atmosphere is definitely there.
And then there’s the food.
Led by Head Chef, Diego Cardoso, and specialising in modern British cuisine, the all-day menu is as tempting as any. Standouts include a selection of flatbreads; salads; beer battered fish & chips (£12) and braised lamb shank (£16), while you can never go wrong with baked apples and custard for dessert (£9.50).
Better still, brunch is served from 9.30am until 5pm on weekends, including Cotswold eggs; rolled oats with blueberries and maple syrup (£4) and spiced coconut granola with Greek yoghurt (£4.50). We shared between us the baked eggs, avocado and tomato (£7.50) and smoked salmon with avocado salsa and flatbread (£8) – and left with a full meal plan for our next visit.
Add to this the selection of beers, craft ales, affordable wines and seasonal cocktails, and The Lighterman has all the ingredients to be spot of choice in summer months and warmer days.
Here’s the real winner, though – during our prolonged visit on a busy Sunday morning, not one member of iPad-equipped staff made our extended brunch feel like a burden (which, we can all agree is a rarity in such London venues). In fact, we couldn’t have felt more welcome. Glass of water nearly empty? Instantly refilled. Curious as to what music is playing? No problem – we’ll find out for you (it’s a Track 8 playlist, for those who are interested). Still sure we can’t tempt you with a dessert? Oh, go on then!
Now that’s customer service.
(Damn it – I have a horrible feeling the girls even paid for themselves! – Ed)
Sophie Parkinson: twitter @sophie_t_p
Hannah Phillips: twitter @hanrph